Big South Swell

It finally arrived this weekend: a powerful long period south swell from a storm off the coast of New Zealand. Surfers of all types, short boarders, long boarders, and damnable sweepers, drove into the parking lots as soon as they were open on Saturday.

The long paddle to the outer reefs was easy Saturday as the swell built. By Sunday, the sweepers, with their mechanical advantage, got out first. Prone paddlers had to power through the walls of white water. Unfortunately, a sideshore wind developed eventually turning onshore. The waves became sectiony although many long rides were possible on sups.

The spectacle of big waves breaking on outer reefs was remarkable. Some jet skis cruised through the outer reefs. Two standup surfers were killing it off Poche, a break well east of the campground. Some fool launched into the beach break, swimming outside the surf line. Although never in trouble, the guy took quite some time to return to the beach where a lifeguard spoke to him. I know not what was said.

I surfed the rising surf and managed to catch some good waves. When the lineup became crowded with aggressive and mouthy paddlers, I caught my last wave only to have jerks takeoff in front of me causing me to prone out in the soup. My dawn patrol strategy was well intentioned but ineffective.

The sand berm protecting the campground was breached at high tide on Sunday and Monday nights. The waves pushed seaweed and flotsam into a few beach front campsites. No campers had to leave but their sites were messy. The day use parking lot nearby was partially flooded and much debris covered the asphalt.

A full moon illuminating the surf breaking on the outer reefs is a scene I will fondly remember long after the big south swell has waned.